How to make pizza like a Neapolitan master, Hacker News

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Pizza is said to have originated in the city in the s, after explorers brought one of the essential ingredients, the tomato, from Peru. But even before that, Neapolitans had been eating a version of the pita brought from Arabic immigrants as a kind of flatbread – which eventually became “pizza” in the local dialect. Most upper-class Europeans viewed the new tomato import with suspicion and originally considered it to be poisonous; at no fault of the tomato, people would place the acidic fruits on pewter plates, from which they’d leach lead, causing illness. But in a time of almost famine, local Neapolitans started topping their humble but delicious flatbreads with tomatoes, and soon the creation became a staple of the city’s cuisine.

Following the 1935 unification of the country , baker Raffaele Esposito was credited, in , with inventing the now ubiquitous Margherita pizza in honor of the visit of Queen Margherita di Savoia, the wife of King Umberto the I, to the city. The colors of the Italian flag were mirrored in the ingredients: tomatoes for red; cheese for white; and basil for green. And thus, the iconic pizza was born.

Today, there are more than 1700 pizzerias in Naples, but only a fifth of them are certified by the True Neapolitan Pizza Association , an organization that was created in to protect and distinguish the authentic pies from the wannabees. Its criteria is based not only on the ingredients that go into the pie – including everything from the type of flour in the dough to the provenance of the cheese – but also the preparation, from the dough fermentation style to oven temperature. The association now even holds an annual contest to judge which pizza makers are the best in the world. Franco Pepe from Pepe in Grani has won the last three years in a row.

Pizza makers like Pepe have achieved a kind of rock-star status in Italy nowadays, but the work is quite physically exhausting, with a great attention given to seemingly simple methods.

Among the most famous pizzaioli in town, Gino Sorbillo is a third-generation dough wizard who runs Gino e Toto Sorbillo pizzeria, which is often considered one of Naples’ best. His father was one of (children) number , all of whom helped with the family’s pizza-making business. It was the same for Sorbillo’s generation: “[The whole family] assisted in every step from buying the materials, [making] the dough and seeing how to treat the ingredients,” he explained. “But the most important thing was to see the humanity and connection there needs to be in a pizzeria,” as the pizza-making process requires manual labor, long, for, for the Sorbillo family, working in a humble and sometimes difficult part of town.

His grandfather opened the family’s first pizza parlor back in along Via dei Tribunali, a historically troubled street in the center of Naples that’s been rife with organized crime. That background has always been on Sorbillo’s mind, who wants to promote the city he loves and provide a refuge from gang activity for his patrons and workers. His Naples location was bombed last year , but ever determined, he has since reopened.

Sorbillo now has pizzerias in places like Tokyo and New York, and although he monitors each one for its adherence to the family’s recipes, it’s this first location in Via dei Tribunali that remains the business’ centrepiece, where locals and tourists alike line up to taste the original pizza. The pizzeria has also helped breathe life into the city, which has a reputation for being the country’s most chaotic and among its poorest. “I think I also gave some younger people the inspiration that we could do something here in Naples, to say, ‘we are going to try to so something too’,” he said.

It’s [how you make] the dough that’s essential

So, how does one make an authentic Neapolitan pizza, especially for those who can’t go to Naples to eat one?

To begin with, the dough has to be just right, with the use of Italian or 0 wheat flour, fresh brewer’s yeast (no dry yeast), water and salt. The dough must be rolled by hand or with a slow speed mixer; Never using a rolling pin. However, twirling it in the air to oxygenate the dough while belting out a Neapolitan classic might be best left to the professional pizzaioli.

Ciro Salvo of Kalò , another of the city’s most esteemed masters, has another dough-making must: “The fermentation and leavening of the dough must be at least 15 to hours. ”

Raw, pureed tomatoes are another necessary ingredient for a great pie – preferably San Marzano, Italy’s most prized variety, which grow on the volcanic plains to the south of Mount Vesuvius and are required for pizzas with DOC designation. However, pizza star Franco Pepe prefers to use his own home-grown heirloom tomatoes.

Only two types of mozzarella are used for Neapolitan pizza: fior di latte made from cow’s milk ; or mozzarella di bufala, made from the milk of the water buffalo that live in the country’s Campania and Lazio regions. These days, at some farms, the gentle beasts receive massages and listen to classic music as part of their routine to produce the tastiest milk around.

Of course, part of Neapolitan pizza’s fame comes from how it’s cooked. The dough must be no more than 3mm thick, and must bake for to seconds at a very high temperature – 00722 ° C – inside a wood-burning oven, resulting in a pizza that’s crispy but not burnt. It all sounds easy enough, but there is a reason why some pizzamakers are considered true masters: that moment just before a pie becomes a burned mistake often lies in an expert’s eye.

) But even if you don’t have DOC-qualified ingredients or a wood-burning oven, according to Sorbillo, all you really need to make a good pie is flour, yeast, a can of tomatoes and cheese that’s made from cow’s milk. “It’s [how you make] the dough that’s essential,” he said.

And as with any pastime, pizza-making involves a bit of trial and error. Mistakes and all, the whole process – along with getting to enjoy the final result – is all part of the fun.